Fil You In

I haven’t written lately – apologies: it’s been quite busy at the office. For the last few weeks, I’ve been working with the  C&C (CSR & Communications) Department: learning about our efforts regarding the Global Brother Brand, participating in their work and activities, and discussing how to improve alignment with the US. My last day with them was yesterday, and after a successful final presentation, I am treating myself to some 7/11 soft-serve ice cream. Outside, Typhoon Hagibis is underway, so all the trains, stores, and restaurants are shut down. It’s the first time they’ve closed Tokyo Disneyland for a weather-related incident since 1958. The Nagoya area doesn’t seem to be in much danger, but to be safe – I’m spending the day inside.

In the meantime, let me Fil You In on a recent trip I took to Osaka.

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Checking In

As the third-largest city in the country and only 50 minutes from Nagoya by train, Osaka is known for its  laid-back attitude and good eats. Its slogan is kuidaore, which basically means “Eat Until You Go Bankrupt,” and as a Japanese-food lover, I was super excited to visit. They even have a clown mascot named after the phrase, and yes – he’s creepy.

Even just stepping off the train, I could feel that the energy in the city was far different than Tokyo. People are friendlier, brighter, and filled with more laughter. The streets are colorful and distinctly animated, decorated in eye-catching streetwear shops, bustling food vendors, and izakaya pubs. Just walking around fills me with excitement – I can’t wait to see this place lit up at night.

The first thing I do is check into my hotel “room” – well, actually my pod. Tonight, I’ll be staying at the 9h nine hours Namba capsule hotel, a hotel-style famous in Japan and a budget-friendly alternative for tourists, travelers, or anyone who partied too late and missed the last train.

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Okay – it’s really not as bad as it looks. For roughly $25 a night (on a Saturday!), the place is extremely clean, comfortable, and I slept like a baby. There is a privacy screen, but it’s not a door – I’m guessing there needs to be some airflow so the capsule doesn’t turn into a coffin. This might turn you away if you’re concerned about safety – though in my experience the people of Japan are generally not rule-breakers, and the pod rooms are locked and gender-segregated. They provide you with a locker, shared bathroom/showers, and basic amenities: towels, slippers, disposable toothbrush/toothpaste, and even an adorable pair of pajamas so that you can match with all the other capsule-people. Yes, I tried them – and yes, they were comfy. The place is incredibly futuristic-looking – each person gets a little card with a QR code on it, which is used to scan into the sleeping room, the locker, and the bathroom. Overall, I really liked it and would recommend it for anyone who plans on spending very little time at the hotel, and most of their time sightseeing.

Night on the Town

After orienting myself with my science-fiction sleeping space, I hit the streets. Lucky for me, I’m just a few blocks from the heart of the city: Dotombori Street, an overflowing cultural hub surrounding a 400-year old canal – a really neat mixture of old and new.

I stay on this promenade for quite some time, just meandering in and out of the different shops and taking in the view. There’s a rugby match this weekend, so every few minutes I can hear the BOOM of excitement and applause from a nearby sports pub. There are so many tourists here for the games, especially from England & Ireland, so I manage to blend in fairly easily. Not far from the main canal is the iconic Glico Running Man sign, one of the most recognizable sights of Osaka, advertising a well-known Japanese confectionery company headquartered in this city. They make many products, one of the most famous being Pocky – chocolate-coated biscuit sticks.

With a city as big as Osaka, it’s natural there’s a Don Quijote store nearby. These are a modern symbol of Japan: completely overwhelming multi-story buildings with millions of discount products tucked inside.  I mean, they have everything you can image: candy, food, liquor, household items, electronics, clothing, souvenirs, costumes, manga, appliances, bath products, every flavor of Kit Kat – you name it – all for relatively cheap prices. I’ve done some shopping at the one in Nagoya, but I can only take about 20-30 minutes before my hands start to shake and the fight-or-flight syndrome kicks in. The aisles are narrow, unrealistically stocked from floor to ceiling, and completely swamped with people. Imagine taking an entire section of a department store and shoving it into a living room, then multiplying that by 100. It’s somewhat of a labyrinth, too, and easy to get lost in. I would not recommend it to anyone with claustrophobia. The one in Osaka, however, is particularly immense, with a gigantic Ferris Wheel operating around the perimeter building. I go in briefly but don’t buy anything as the line wraps around the whole first level of the store. However, I do take a ride on the Ferris Wheel – to take in the view from a different angle.

I have a big day tomorrow, as I will spend the day in the nearby town of Nara, ancient capital of Japan (before Kyoto, even), and home to beautiful temples as well as hundreds of deer roaming amidst the people. But, before I go back to my capsule, there’s one thing I need to do: try one of Osaka’s famous cuisines: okonomiyaki (meaning: “what you like”), a savory pancake topped with vegetables, scallions, egg, seafood, and various sauces. It’s usually cooked in front of you and then served on a hot skillet that keeps it warm as you eat it, and I’ve got to say – it’s probably my favorite Japanese food that I’ve tried so far. There are many different ways to get it, depending on taste – the Hiroshima version features noodles, the Osaka version comes without. But naturally, when in Osaka…

As I get ready to turn in, I stop by Amerika-mura, a super-hip urban area with a miniature replica of the Statue of Liberty, and watch people at Triangle Park play music, dance, and just have fun with their friends. For them, it seems like the night will never end, and part of me misses everyone back home. Nearby, slanted graffiti reads “Would u kill 4 peace?” Hm. Nothing like some political food-for-thought to end the night.

The Next Morning

Before heading to Nara, I make a quick stop back at Dotonbori to experience the daytime. It’s far more quiet – people are probably still recovering from last night – but you can start to feel the bustle as it slowly begins to churn. It’s amazing to see a sleepy city come to life. For a quick snack, I try Osaka’s other famous staple: takoyaki – fried octopus balls. I swear it’s far more delicious than how it sounds. I get it at one of the famous shops, while the line is still short. It even has its own theme song: a takoyaki ballad set to classical orchestral music – hilarious!

After the meal, I take my time to meander among the different shops of Shinsaibashi, admiring how the city manages to fit so much stuff in such little space, and making a quick stop to pick up some souvenirs. By now, I’ve learned to communicate pretty well within stores – but when in doubt, a warm smile and hand gestures go a long way. Just as I am about to turn back to the train station, I stumble upon the cozy Hozenji Temple, tucked away in an alley just off the main shopping strip. That’s one of my favorite parts of Japan, I think: the juxtaposition of the ancient and the modern. You can find temples and shrines everywhere, oftentimes right next to skyscrapers, and usually very tiny. This one features a statue completely covered in moss. I can’t even begin to fathom how old it probably is, but I take a moment to respect the serenity and the people that I’m sure work very hard to take care of it.

I loved Osaka, even though my time here was short. Next stop: Nara – I’ll be sharing some of that magic in a separate post.

Until Next Time,

Fil

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Phrase of the Day:

お腹が空きました! (Onaka ga sukimashita!)

Translation: I’m hungry!

A few weeks ago, I had the opportunity to visit Brother Philippines (BIPH), home to one of our core production centers in the Asian region and a key catalyst for business success across the world. It was a quick trip (only two days), but I was able to tour the facility, meet with many employees, ask a lot of questions, and also share information about US operations. I can’t post pictures of the factory lines themselves (which are understandably confidential), but I’ll do my best to share the rest of the experience. As always, feel free to ask questions via comments or email!

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The moment I step onto the plane, I see the positive nature and bright attitude of the Filipino people. Smiles are wide, greetings are heartfelt and sincere – it’s impossible not to feel enchanted. This attribute remains consistent in all the people I meet across my trip. Also, everyone speaks amazing English (in addition to Tagalog). It’s really very impressive (and certainly a relief).

Upon exiting customs, the first thing I notice is a Jollibee stand near the currency exchange booth, a restaurant chain which I swear I have never seen before in my life (despite apparently having branches in New York) – but more on that later. The drive to the hotel is short, and the building is certainly a lot more extravagant than I had expected. It is over 30 stories tall, there’s a koi pond in the lobby, and my hotel room is twice as big as my dorm. This would be the first night I sleep in a real bed since August 29. No, I haven’t been counting the days. What makes you think I’ve been counting?

I quickly learn that the Yen-to-Philippine Peso conversation rate is really great, and things are remarkably cheap for a foreigner in the country. Since Imai san and I arrive hours before dinner, we decide to take a trip to the local shopping mall.

Jollibee

I’m immediately entranced by how incredibly similar the mall looks to the Menlo Park or Bridgewater mall back in New Jersey. I mean, it’s as if they took the exact same blueprint and just replaced the American stores with some more global brands. For a moment, I feel like I’m home. There are even Christmas decorations already set up (in the Philippines, the Christmas season starts in September – as a holiday season lover, I’m not complaining).

The food court is absolutely immense. Enjoying a good meal is a cultural staple in the Philippines, and it certainly shows in the selection of restaurants: there is every fast-food chain you could imagine, along with local cuisine from dozens of different cultures. I think the food court takes up the entire first floor. However, despite all the choices, there is naturally only one place to go.

Now, I have to be honest, I am absolutely obsessed with Jollibee. I have never seen anything like it. I will definitely be visiting the New York location when I get back home – you know, for science.

Anyway, we walk in and are ushered to a machine to place our orders – a truly modern Jollibee, it seems. This is probably for the better since I am way too overwhelmed to speak to anyone, even in English. There are children running circles around me. Lines out the door. Yelling, laughing, scraping forks, the faint sound of Ariana Grande on the radio. I feel like I’m in the Filipino Chuck E. Cheese. We wait 5 minutes for our orders. My hamburger comes with spaghetti and French fries, so obviously I feel extra lucky. I think I was asked if I wanted rice, too. I don’t actually remember – I might have blacked out for a moment.

When we sit down, I look to my left and see a telephone booth right next to a curtain-partitioned lactation room. It’s very thoughtful of them to include a curtain, I think. After the meal, which is typical fast food quality, we search to deposit our trays somewhere. A customer kindly informs us to just leave it on the table. Amazing. We walk out and I’m in a whirlwind. The whole experience must have been about 20 minutes total, but it felt like a week in Las Vegas. We get a few hours rest before dinner, but honestly what could be better than Jollibee?

Dinner at a Restaurant better than Jollibee

Emoto san picks us up and takes us to a nearby Spanish restaurant. He’s one of the two HR managers in the Philippines, and was transferred from BIL. I learn that job rotations and inter-company transfers are common, intended to build global leadership skills and international experience. We talk about some of the challenges of the company, which has almost 7,000 employees. Retention is one of them – each month they have to hire hundreds of people. It’s an issue a lot of the nearby facilities face.

Before ending the night, we are serenaded by a Spanish trio band inside the restaurant. Their song of choice? Hello Darkness My Old Friend by Simon & Garfunkel. Romantic. We give them a tip. On the way to the hotel, I see several Jeepneys, vehicles styled after leftover U.S. Military Jeeps from WWII, and the trademark transportation system of the Philippines. As I admire their kitschy decorations, I can’t help but wonder how you would know when to get off.

Factory Visit

At 6:00AM, we load up in a van filled with other BIL employees. I didn’t see them on our flight, but assume they must have also gotten in yesterday. Since BIL travels so frequently to BIPH, they’re pretty well coordinated with their transportation arrangements. The facility is about an hour away from the main Manila area (not many hotels near the factory location), and I am the only one in the van not wearing a uniform. In other words, I fit right in!

The factory is located in a giant industrial park, filled with over 100 other companies. The Philippines is clearly a manufacturing powerhouse. After checking in, I change into my borrowed safety shoes – a name-brand plastic shoe with holes in them – take a guess. Never in my life would I have thought that I would wear these. And I’m ashamed to admit that they were incredibly comfortable. Like walking on air. But I’m never buying a pair. Ever. I just have too much pride.

This plate is utterly gigantic, and bustling with employees, even as early in the morning as it is. Again, I’m taken aback by the kindness of the people: they greet me as if they’ve known me for 10 years.

I get up to the main office floor where HR sits and am welcomed by dozens of smiling faces from the HR team.  They are all especially overjoyed to see Imai san again, who used to be the HR Manager here for several years. Luckily, I’m just in time for the morning stretches (which I wish I had recorded). Everyone stands up and flails their bodies along to an over-enthusiastic voice on the loudspeaker akin to the guy from Blue’s Clues. He blurts out a series of ergonomic commandments: “Swing your arms to the left!” “Now swing ’em to the right!” “Touch your toes!” “Let’s jump! Let’s jump!” This goes on for several minutes, and I can’t help but laugh as I participate. Everyone else is doing it, so I’d actually feel more ridiculous if I didn’t. It really is kind of an amazing way to start the day.

I’m taken through a series of rapid-fire meetings with the HR team where we share differences in structure between our two countries. Their sentences are in perfect English, occasionally peppered with the word po, a word used often in Tagalog to convey respect towards someone else. I learn that they have a whole group here dedicated to expatriate management (including housing, commuting, relocation), since there are about 40 expats from BIL currently living in the country. They also share their CSR activities at BIPH and it’s wholesome to hear that Brother’s social contribution activities carry all over the world. Recently, they hosted a “Safety Olympics” with the nearby school district, where students would compete in safety-oriented competitions, a combination of fun and learning.

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After the information-sharing, I’m led through on a factory tour with Imai san. Unfortunately, I can’t share any photos, but it is really cool to see our products come to life. As we walk through the different sections of  inkjet machines, label makers, ink cartridges, and label tapes, we meet lots of people and get big smiles beaming back at us. The energy here is just incredibly positive. Every once in awhile, there’s the bell-tone of Fur Elise or Greensleeves over the loudspeaker which signals a break time or a change of shift, in a very lighthearted way.

The entry room of the building has some cool displays, including a map of every Brother facility in the world! There’s a miniature model of the factory building, and some various awards displayed. There’s even a plaque that was given to Brother by the former Filipino President, H. E. Benigno S. Aquino III – turns out he was here for the inauguration of the building in 2013!

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Later, I have a few more meetings with HR members to share more best practices. I meet Ren Gonzalez, one of the HR Managers that was actually transferred from the Quality Assurance. He tells me about how he came to work for Brother because he was looking for a company to retire from, and that he’s glad he’s found it. We talk about HR challenges in both of our countries and are surprised to find a lot of similarities.

Dinner is with a few other members of the management team at BIPH, and we’re taken through a series of traditional dishes – oxtail soup, bamboo rice, lechón, fried frog, and my favorite: dessert – a delicious conglomerate of various sweets called halo-halo.

On the way home, I think about what a busy two days it had been, but filled with memories of some of the nicest people I’ve met so far. I think about all the presentations and reports I’ll be working on next week, but remember to keep the trademark Filipino positivity at the forefront of my mind. After all, there’s a little Fil in Filipino.

Until next time,
Fil

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Phrase of the Day:

“Salamat po!”

Translation: Thank you! (Tagalog)

After two weeks in Momozono dormitory, I finally feel comfortable enough to thoroughly describe the amenities and overall living experience here. I have to say, it’s really not bad – I guess I had some preconceived notions of a typical Japanese living space and how undeniably challenging it would be for an American who comes from the land of “bigger is better.” In the end, the space is not as small as I expected and for someone who spends most of his time in the office or exploring on the weekends, it has more than enough room for a 3-month stay. However, I really didn’t bring that much stuff (about 2 suitcases) – adding any extra furniture or household items, I think, would be troublesome for the average person.

This post contains lots of pictures so you can get a good idea of the living space. I tried my best to capture different angles but as you can imagine I don’t exactly have a lot of room for long-range shots! Real estate agents around here must have a tough time.

Overview

The dorm is not very scenic from the outside – it’s your standard neutral-toned apartment building with some parking space and a bike rack (and even a moped/Vespa section – neat!). The buildings here all have a retro, rectangular style, and as you could guess – most things are just smaller: the cars, the parking spaces, the streets, and the buildings. The most interesting thing about the dorm is a small shrine near the front of the building, sitting comfortably right next the trash area (yikes!). There’s a total of four entrances that can be used, and the best part is I can easily swipe in with the exact same ID badge I use to get into any of the Brother office buildings. It’s all very efficient. The card reader works right through my wallet or bag, too — so I don’t even have to take it out to get in. Super easy!

The location is incredibly convenient, featuring a lot of key areas just a few minutes’ walk away: a supermarket, some noodle shops, the train, the subway, an internet (manga) café, a 7/11, a Lawson (the other major convenience store here), and of course – the Brother offices. It really has everything you need.

Entrance & Kitchen

I live on the second floor, and there’s three locks to make me feel very secure. Here, I have to turn my key the opposite way in order to lock/unlock the door, so that takes a little while to get used to. There’s a doorbell to be used (theoretically) by all the people I won’t be entertaining – since my space is way too little for that – and I don’t think I could pull off an Ina Garten dinner party with one burner and a microwave.

The entrance way spills right into the kitchen, with a little shoe closet to your left so as to not trek in the filth from the outside. The room even comes with a cute little pair of slippers which I make sure not to touch (my guess is they might  have been used by my predecessor and although I’m sure he is a nice person, I have certain limits). There’s a contraption on the front door that still remains a mystery to me, so please don’t ask me what it’s for. I have made a mental note to ask one of my co-workers when I finally give up on figuring it out.

The kitchen itself is decent – it contains the basics to live: a fridge, freezer, microwave, kettle, sink, burner, dish soap, a sponge, and naturally – a rice cooker. It even includes some kitchen wares: a pot, a pan, a dinner tray, cutting board, knife, fork, two spoons, spatula, ladle, chopsticks, and some bowls. Everything is tiny of course, but for the most part – it works. The sink is really tough to maneuver but for a few dishes, it’s certainly manageable.

Bathroom…s

The bathroom is separated in the typical non-western set-up, with the toilet room being separate from the main washroom. To my surprise, the toilet does not feature a bidet (though the office toilets do), but it does include a sink on top of the basin that magically comes to life when you flush –  you know, as a gentle reminder to wash those hands!

The washroom contains a decent sized area for morning readiness procedures, and even comes with a hair dryer. The shelves are small but the cabinet has plenty of space to hold my items. The washing machine is a real treat – super convenient. Although the instructions are 90% in Japanese, they were nice enough to translate the “Start/Stop” button. The rest was figured out quite painfully but I am now proud to say that I can successfully operate the “Standard” cycle. Don’t ask me to do anything else.

There’s no dryer available, but sometimes you just can’t have it all. I hang my clothes outside on the balcony – like the good ol’ days! It works well enough provided you wash in small batches.

I’m not sure how to describe the shower, because it’s really quite strange. There’s a tiny tub right next to the stand-up/sit-down (?) apparatus, all in one room with a joined drainage system. They even included a crotch-height mirror that naturally gets completely fogged up while the shower is in use, but it was a nice thought. There’s plenty of room for me inside, but at 5’10” I stand about 2 inches from the ceiling, so anyone taller than me would be in trouble – you’d probably have to sit. Or squat.

Living Room

The living room has plenty of space but again – I have no furniture. I can’t imagine fitting anything bigger than a twin-sized bedroom set here. I’d be curious to see what the layout of some of my colleagues’ rooms are. Maybe one day soon they’ll deem me safe enough to invite me over. Let’s hope!

The bed is a Japanese futon-style structure, very low to the ground, with a mattress pad and some basic sheets available. It took me a few days to get used to it, but that’s likely because I’m spoiled from my Casper back home. Boy, do I miss my Casper.

There’s a tiny desk available that I never sit at, but it’s nice to put stuff on. The room comes with some other staples: a vacuum, an iron/ironing board, and plenty of closet space, which is fantastic. I actually have more than enough room for my stuff, and they were even generous enough to include 8 whole hangers. Amazing! I hung up some pictures to make it feel more like home.

The air conditioner works great and has been my best friend over the last two weeks, where the days have been close to 100 degrees and the nights a static 90. The floors are wooden but cushioned, so it feels soft and kind of squishy as I walk across. I assume this is to dampen the noise of my loud American foosteps, so as to not disturb the neighbors.

An Actual Nightmare: The Trash Instructions

You know that feeling when you get to the end of a video game and have to face the final boss? That’s what I felt like when I found the trash instructions. I don’t even know where to begin in describing this. It is 4 laminated pages filled with text, diagrams, flowcharts, and imagery. The first time I looked at it I actually gasped and almost fainted. It took me 10 days to put out my first bag of trash because I was just so overwhelmed and afraid of committing some kind of felony that would get me deported. Every night I would pick it up and put it back down again, completely exasperated and defeated. The whole thing is in English, but it doesn’t help. There are three different color-coded bags to sort your trash in – but that’s not enough. Within each color itself, you have to sort too. So your plastic bottles and plastic containers and metal items go in the blue bag, but they all have to be in separate blue bags. I’m only allowed to put out the trash between 7AM – 8AM, and each day of the week is designated for a certain type of bag. With only two trash cans in this dorm, I don’t even know how you could feasibly achieve the proper sorting method without turning the kitchen into a landfill.

When I finally decided to grow up and throw out my trash, I notice that everyone else in the building breaks all the rules – so I feel a little relief. I’ll just have to make sure to go out when no one’s looking so I don’t get caught adding to the chaos. According to the instructions, I’m even supposed to label my trash bags with my name and room number, presumably so I’m held accountable for my trashy sins. Now, I feel that I’ve been a pretty respectful, rule-abiding foreigner so far – but just between you and me, that’s one rule I’m going to have to break.

Until next time,

Fil

P.S. I hope this post didn’t sound too harsh – mostly it was just for fun. Really, this dorm is a great space for the parameters of my stay and I’m really quite comfortable here, overall.

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Phrase of the Day:

わかりません! (Wakarimasen!)

Translation: I don’t understand!

There are a thousand places I’d love to see in this country, so deciding what to do for my first weekend was overwhelming, to say the least – I was feeling the Paradox of Choice: like going to an ice cream shop and holding up the whole line because you just can’t seem to make a decision. I know, I know – a total first world problem. The weather forecast was beautiful, but extremely hot (each day in September has been 90+ degrees so far), so spending all day walking around a big city like Tokyo or Osaka would probably send me to the hospital. Instead, I settle on the quiet town of Gero, comfortably nestled in the mountainous Gifu prefecture, just about 90 minutes north of Nagoya, and known in Japan as one of the top three best onsen (hot spring) towns. It’s been a busy week, and I figure a little bit of zen would be nice.

Fortunately, the JR Central Train runs about every hour, so I don’t have to worry about missing my ride should there be a blip in figuring out the tickets. After some awkward meandering through Nagoya Station and sheepishly realizing that my metro card in fact would not get me to the mountains, I stumble across the ticket counter for long-distances trains – the JR line. (There’s a whole lot of information to share about public transportation in Japan, so I’ll be sure to make a separate post with tips & general information).

I slip my ticket through the automated gate and climb on the train with plenty of time to spare, and am immediately impressed by the space, the cleanliness, the comfort, and the extremely large windows. As we start traveling, the windows come in handy, and I get some jaw-dropping views of the Hida river running through the Japan alps.

I had no idea the train ride would be so pretty, the blues and greens reflecting in the sunlight like gemstones. I begin to feel like a kid on Christmas morning, full of excitement for what lies ahead. We arrive at exactly the time indicated on the ticket, and I hop off the train to explore. The town is small but lively, a labyrinth of narrow uphill streets, featuring a myriad of gift shops, restaurants, hotels, galleries, and of course – a Lawson convenience store. As I cross the bridge that connects the two main sections of town, I stop to take in the view.

Since I have a few hours before I check into my ryokan (Japanese-inn style hotel), I take advantage of the daylight by visiting one of the nearby museums I read about. This was probably my favorite part of the stay.

Gero Onsen Gassho Mura Museum

This open-air folk museum is located about a mile up the hill and features a collection of gassho zukuri farmhouses transplanted from various places throughout Japan, joined together to form a village replicating life in these mountains hundreds of years ago. Gassho zukuri translates to “hands in prayer architecture,” referring to the thatched-hay roofs built in the shape of a sharply pointed triangle, intended to protect these homes from heavy snowfall.

In the village, there are dozens of smiling frog statues sprinkled throughout, seemingly watching you from every corner. I didn’t understand why there were so many, but figured that collecting frog statues was just the museum landscaper’s secret obsession. Later on, however, I would see them everywhere throughout the town as well, even filling up a shrine dedicated just to these frogs. After a bit of research, I learned that in Japanese, “gero” is the sound that a frog makes, so the frequent figurines are a nod to its namesake – the more you know!

I make my way through the different houses in the village (careful to take off my shoes as I step inside), admiring the culture, art, and layout of these traditional homes. There is a beautiful shrine with fortunes that you can buy for 100 yen. If the fortune is good, you keep it – if it’s bad, you tie it up and leave it behind. I eagerly purchase one before realizing that of course it will be in Japanese. Not looking to take any risks, I tie it up and leave it – better safe than sorry.

Slowly, I make my way to the top of the hill, passing the twisted tunnels of an amusement park-esque slide that sends you right back down. Eventually, I arrive at my destination, and I am thoroughly sweaty and exhausted – but I’m able to get a great picture. All in all, the museum is a fantastic experience that I highly recommend.

Onsen Relaxation

I stop for a quick lunch of ramen & sasazushi (sushi wrapped in bamboo leaves) before heading to my hotel. I’m excited to check-in and see my room, but then the hotel attendant asks for my passport. I freeze – my heart stops – I didn’t bring it. Reminder: When traveling in Japan, or anywhere internationally for that matter, never make the mistake of forgetting your ID. Ever. Don’t be like me. Always pack your passport. After an embarrassing series of apologies, and maybe a little bit of begging (just between you and me), the management lets me stay with the exchange of my address/phone number as collateral and the promise of sending a picture of my passport when I get back home. Relieved is an understatement.

The room is covered in traditional tatami mats, on which I will be sleeping tonight (no bed in sight). It’s actually really comfortable and yes, I’ll say it – down to earth.

My first task is to experience the hot spring, so I change into the robe provided, reading the instructions attached and staying careful to wrap it with the left side on top (the other way is how they wrap the dead!).

If you’re shy, I wouldn’t recommend it – because yes, the onsen is public (you have to shower before you go in) – but trying a traditional hot spring was on my list of things to experience in Japan. The water was great, and the view of the mountains at sunset was breathtaking. Obviously, no cell phones or pictures are allowed – but you can imagine what it was like.

For dinner, I wander the streets of Gero, which has now become quiet and sleepy. The few locals I see are sporting kimonos and wooden sandals, wandering in and out of the many public foot baths available, free of charge. Everywhere you go, there are tons of red-faced figurines – mascots, I’ll call them – which I later find out to be called sarubobo, or “baby monkey.” They are traditionally a symbol of good luck and happiness in marriage in the Hida region. Typically faceless, the rumor is that during WWII, the doll-makers did not want to feign smiles – so instead of making dolls with sad faces, they chose to leave them blank.

I settle on a nearby restaurant called Kirazushi, a tiny alcove off the side of the main road, where I sit by the counter and am served a set of authentic sashimi, one piece at a time, as the chef prepares it. I watch TV with the patrons, and we talk about the coming typhoon, poised to hit the Tokyo area within the next week. I think about Hurricane Dorian in the US, and how strangely in sync we are, despite the miles. Before I leave, I tell the owner how beautiful his town is.

In the morning, I’m served a traditional Japanese breakfast in the hotel restaurant. I don’t know most of what I ate, so please don’t ask me, but I did make sure to leave the raw egg on the side for someone else to enjoy.

As I ride the train home mid-morning, I’m feeling a bit tired despite the weekend of “relaxation.” I managed to clock in a lot of steps, so I make a mental note to enjoy some downtime tonight before work in the morning. Maybe I’ll tackle my first round of laundry with my dormitory washing machine featuring only Japanese characters. As I look out the window, I see a family kayaking in the river, waving at my train passing by. I wave back – it’s unlikely they saw me, but I believe that good intentions go a long way.

Until next time,

Fil

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Phrase of the Day:

ご馳走様でした. (Gochisousama deshita.)

Translation: Thank you for the meal.

During my first week, I’m invited to attend a Recruiting “Internship” in Tokyo with the team. It’s not the classic internship that Americans know – in fact, it’s really more like a seminar that markets Brother to upcoming college graduates, in the hopes that they choose to work at our company. In Japan, most hiring (over 70%) occurs at the graduate level, and students enter a company as a cohort – Brother hires over 50 graduates a year, and they all start their jobs at the same time, on April 1. As a result, it’s super important to host multiple seminar sessions to entice students into applying. A different round of seminars is catered for Office staff (Finance, IT, HR, Sales, etc), but Engineers are a key audience for Brother as our main R&D facility is in Japan – it’s where all our products are designed and created. Mid-Career hires (chu-to) – the majority in the US – is really the minority at BIL.

We travel by shinkansen (bullet train) and it’s as fast and smooth as advertised. I look out the window at the passing landscapes and can’t help but admire the serenity – wondering what it’s like to live in a mountain town outside the base of Fuji-san. In just 1.5 hours, we travel what would normally take about 4-5 hours by car – truly remarkable. We arrive at the Tokyo office, a smaller facility that houses some of the salespeople of the region. After setting up the presentation room, we’re ready to welcome the students.

Not a single person is late – a cultural attribute that the US could certainly learn from – and Nagano-san jumps right into the program. He maintains an incredible energy as he explains the company history, benefits, profitability, products, and potential career paths. The room is filled with bright engineering students, so it’s essential that he nails the pitch and convinces them to apply. This is the first of many sessions, as the recruiting process starts in September and ends in March, when candidates finish their final interviews and accept offers. Although Nagoya features the majority of Brother applicants due to the convenient location, we advertise in Tokyo as the city houses some of the country’s top students.

The session is broken up by a Q&A breakout with current engineering employees, and ends with a presentation by Furuyama-san, the mechanical engineer behind the P-Touch Cube, one of our modern and more enticing products. He tells the story of the engineering challenges behind creating the Cube, and the determination it took to make it a reality, finishing with an overview of the monumental sales success. The concept of a “challenging work environment” is really attractive for candidates in Japan. Students are then invited to interact with the products and ask any additional questions. Overall, the “internship” is a success, with high engagement. Nagano-san makes sure to highlight future information sessions, and we cross our fingers hoping that they’ll continue to show interest in Brother.

Imai-san invites me to skip the afternoon session so that he can take me to Akihabara in downtown Tokyo, otherwise known as the “Electric City.” I’m stunned by the sheer energy of this district – it’s packed with anime shops, costumed shopkeepers, arcades, lights, music, and tourists. It’s everything you’ve seen and heard about Tokyo – a true technological metropolis. I make a mental note to come back here one day during the nighttime to see everything lit up.

He takes me to a few different electronic shops (BIC Camera and Yodobashi Camera), two of our top resellers in Japan. I’m overwhelmed by the displays in these shops – they have everything you could possibly imagine spread across 6 or 7 stories – and we walk over to some of the Brother printer displays. It’s a little different here than in the US. In Japan, we hire Brother salespeople to stand in the stores and recommend our products directly to the customers. Also, there’s a lot more color, information, and imagery. These electronic stores even sell cosmetics and alcohol – definitely something you wouldn’t see at Best Buy! Overall, a super cool experience. The most surprising piece is seeing the Scan’N’Cut right next to our P-Touch labelers. Imai-san jokes that perhaps the store doesn’t know what the product is really meant for.

After the tour, we head back to the Tokyo office, where I’m taken through the Show Room. This is something we don’t have in the States – a room filled with an impressive display of our products shown mostly to potential business partners, and it’s akin to an automobile dealership – sleek and attractive, with an assortment of spotlights to literally put our machines in a good light.  

We end the day at a nearby restaurant to celebrate the day’s work, where we enjoy okonomiyaki, a savory dish made with a crispy pancake base and laden with fish, miso sauce, and shaved vegetables. It’s absolutely delicious and might be one of my favorite Japanese dishes that I’ve tried so far – something I definitely have never seen in the States. I talk with Imai-san and Nagano-san about travel in the US and the many places I’ve yet to see. During his time at college, Nagano-san spent a year in the US at Lewis & Clark College in Oregon – probably why his English is so fantastic. He speaks about how much he enjoyed the US landscapes and dreams about coming back one day. I let him know that I’d happily join him in his travels, as there are many places that are still on my list as well. We joke about the Northwest US “hipster” culture over a shared round of sho-ju before heading home.

In preparing for the weekend, I think about possible options. A stay at an onsen, a traditional Japanese hot spring, sounds about right. Let’s see if I can figure out the train schedule. Wish me luck?

Until next time,

Fil

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Phrase of the Day:

蒸し暑い ですね？ (mushiatsui desu ne?)

Translation: Humid, isn’t it?

It’s Monday and I wake up too early – 5AM. It must be first-day jitters. I have three hours to kill and I’m feeling antsy in the hotel room with nothing to keep me company but Japanese cable television, so I decide to try my luck at a neighborhood run – let’s just hope I don’t get lost. The morning air is already thick with humidity as I set out on the streets, but I’m so taken by the cityscape that I hardly notice. I keep my GPS-enabled phone in hand the whole time – you know, just in case – and although I’m typically directionally challenged, I somehow stumble across one of the top places on my Nagoya sight-seeing list – the Atsuta Jingu shrine, which was built over 1900 years ago.

I stand back and take in the view, admiring a few locals in what I assume to be a Shinto prayer ritual. They drop a coin in the collection box and then bow, rise, pause, clap (exactly twice), take a moment of silence, then resume their morning. I’ll have to ask a colleague about what it all means.

I head back and freshen up before meeting with Imai-san. I feel calm now, ready to take on the day, the pesky worries at bay. Turns out a good run can work wonders no matter what country you’re in. We head towards Horita Station, thankfully a few stops away, and although it’s far less busy than Kanayama, I’m relieved to see that everything is a few minutes’ walk from the station: a supermarket, my dormitory, the Brother office, and of course – a 7/11.

We’re greeted by Kaneko-san at Momozono Dormitory, who shows me around, and hands me my room key as well as a Brother ID badge – this will be my lifeline: it swipes you into every Brother building, the cafeterias, the satellite offices in other locations, and of course – my dorm! The room is small, as expected, but I’m actually quite surprised by the amenities – basic kitchen appliances, utensils, my own bathroom (divided into 2 rooms), a washer, blow dryer, balcony, futon bed, small desk, vacuum, iron, and plenty of closet space. I think living in it full-time would be a challenge, but for a 3 month stay it has everything that I need. I promise to make a full post of my dorm at a later date, complete with pictures.

The Office

The walk is brief, but boy is this heat something – it seems that Nagoya is in fact a different kind of melting pot. We pass a number of Brother buildings before heading to the main office – an R&D facility, the Brother museum (a future post will detail this awesome place), Mizuho Factory, the Brother Hospital, and of course – the main office: 6 floors, housing around 300 office employees.

HR is located on the third floor: I swipe my ID to get in (I told you this thing is key to life here), and am greeted by an echo of ecstatic faces – everyone is so excited to see me! I’m lucky enough to be the second only trainee in HR (the first from China several years ago), and as I look around the room I get excited to think about all the awesome memories I’ll make with my colleagues here. I hope they don’t mind being featured in this blog!

After a series of “hajimemashite” introductions and business card exchanges (a ritual in and of itself), I’m shown to my seat in the Recruiting area. I’m greeted by a “Welcome to Japan Fil-san” – a nice touch – and, if you look closely, you’ll catch a glimpse of the Strategic Culture Drivers, a little touch of the USA I brought over to make my space feel more like home.

My first day is a bit of a blur, and as I struggle to remember everyone’s names (imagine meeting 20+ people in one day), I have to mention how amazingly helpful, welcoming, and kind everyone is. Despite my extremely limited Japanese, my team does their best to communicate with me. Pro Tip: A smile and a laugh goes a long way.

I learn about HR’s structure, my allowance schedule and upcoming project deadlines, as well as instructions to get to my Japanese lessons – three train stations away – through a series of printed PowerPoint slides. Thank goodness for the iPhone Map app.

Lunch is at the company cafeteria, where I pick up a bento for less than 400 yen (roughly 4 dollars). Afterwards, I’m given my first task: introduce myself to the whole HR department (about 50 people), solely in Japanese. I tell them a little about my job in the US, my age (a standard conversation topic), my joy to be in Japan, how long I’ve been studying the language, and that I look forward to working with everyone. Good thing I practiced – Imai-san gives me a thumbs up.

After lunch, I head to my first Japanese lesson at IC Nagoya near Nagoya Station, somehow managing not to get lost, and I’m given a test that I clearly fail – after an expression of disappointment from my sensei,it looks like I’m starting at the basics. A bit discouraging being that I’ve been studying since March, but I don’t let it set me back too much – I’m here to learn as much as I can.

Dinner is with the whole team at an izakaya, a traditional Japanese restaurant where you order a series of dishes to share, chasing with nothing other than beer and sake. I try the most delicious array of Japanese food (Kaarage, tamago yaki, octopus, sashimi in vinegar, and roasted pork) and cheers my team with an authentic Kanpai! – one word I’ve certainly mastered by now. My colleagues compliment my chopstick skills (the breakfast practice paid off), and we talk about must-see attractions in Nagoya and the surrounding area – Kyoto, Osaka, Gero, Hakone, and of course – Tokyo. I head home in a wonderful mood feeling extremely welcomed and grateful for having a fantastic team.

So much else has happened so far but don’t worry, I’ll be sure to Fil you in – stay tuned for most posts. If only I had more time to write!

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Phrase of the Day

お疲れ様です (otsukare sama deshita)

Translation: You are tired.

What It Really Means: This phrased is said often around the office, typically used to tell a colleague that you appreciate their hard work. You say it often in the office after a job well done or at the end of the day, when parting.

I wake up well rested, despite yesterday’s trip. It seems my plane-sleep strategy was effective enough. The weather forecast is beautiful today (85F and sunny), so I decide to tackle Nagoya Castle, a treasure of the city. Since cash is king in Japan (cards are not accepted everywhere – I wasn’t sure if the Castle ticket booth would take cards), and I forgot to exchange my dollars at the airport, this means hunting down a Currency Exchange first. To get there, I have to take the train. To take the train, I need to figure out the train schedule and also secure a train card. I know, right? Big day.

I stop for some hotel breakfast served with a mix of western and traditional Japanese items, and the selection is definitely interesting – eggs, sausage, seaweed salad, shredded lettuce, an edamame salad of some sort, miso soup, grilled pork, a variety of sweet & savory breads, and of course: rice. I try a little bit of everything and reach for a fork, then stop myself. I shift a bit and choose to challenge myself with a pair of chopsticks. Better get used to it!

I finish up and I’m in good spirits as I walk to Kanayama Station. I stop at the Tourist Info Center, where I pick up a handful of brochures, city maps, and sightseeing recommendations – all free! I locate the train ticket machine and luckily there’s an English menu – for 500¥ (about $5), I secure my card and load it up. That was easy!

After studying the train schedule closely (luckily, also an English version here), with added verification from my navigation app, I hop on the train and see that I’m headed to the correct destination (phew!) – and it’s only 1 stop away. Upon arrival, I finally find the Currency Exchange (this one took a while) in the underground Unimall, and head towards the Castle. I pass a street market featuring produce, souvenir shops, and even a tiny shrine. The souvenir shop has magnificent fans, rice bowls, chopsticks, and sake cups for sale — all decorated beautifully and traditionally. I make a mental note to pick some up before I return back to the States.

Nagoya Castle – 名古屋城

As I approach, I’m stunned at the architecture, the sunshine reflecting on its jade-colored roof and highlighting its beauty. Although it was mostly burned down during the air raids of WWII, the reconstruction is incredibly convincing – you couldn’t tell that it wasn’t straight from the 1600s. Atop the roof sit two golden shachi, mythological creatures with a tiger’s head and a fish’s body, said to have control over the rain. They are traditionally mounted as a talisman to prevent fires.

I take some time to explore the outside gardens as well the inside of Hommaru Palace, recently reconstructed after the WWII fires and open fully to the public only as of a few years ago. I’m asked to take off my shoes inside before observing the serenity of the tatami mat rooms and taking pictures of the art along the walls, trying to imagine what it would be like to live here hundreds of years ago.

Preparing for Work Tomorrow

Afterwards, I stop by a nearby restaurant for a bowl of udon, and contemplate the upcoming week. I move into my permanent residence tomorrow, and then go to the Brother office for my first day of work. I have a mix of emotions, ranging from excitement to worry. I hope my first day is successful, and that I leave a good impression on everyone that I meet. I’m so excited to learn all about BIL and their processes, but remind myself to keep a good pace. I want to do my best in doing the research for our future Global Mobility program, but there’s so much to learn and so many questions to answer. I have to remember that I’m here for 3 months – there’s plenty of time to ask questions and get into the details. I don’t have to have it all figured out right away.

I choose to walk off my meal in lieu of the train, and on the way home I pass one of the dozens of public bike racks I’ve seen so far in the city. I look on as an elderly lady retrieves her jitensha from the rack, hops on with ease, and pedals away smiling. I admire her attitude, and make a mental note to take the week one pedal at a time. As I walk home, completely by chance, I pass the Brother Earth planetarium. Life sure can be funny sometimes – I’ll have to visit one day soon.

Until next time!

– Fil

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Phrase of the Day

駅はどこですか　(eki wa doko desu ka)

Translation: Where is the train station?

Departure

It’s Thursday night and I’m sitting on my bed, fighting the urge to sleep. I leave first thing in the morning, and my bags have been packed since Tuesday. After consulting with some colleagues who have made the 13hr journey before, I determine that the best strategy is to thoroughly exhaust myself so as to fall asleep easily once I’m in the air. It helps you get acclimated to the destination time — my 11:30AM flight equates to 1:30AM in Japan.

I don’t make it. Around 4AM I give up and catch a few hours. My brother brings me to the airport – we talk about his daughter, my first niece, just born yesterday – I thank him for making the time to send me off. I think about all the toys I plan to buy her in Japan. He snaps my picture and gives me a hug before I go. See you for Thanksgiving.

I figured that I could catch the rest of my 8 hours on the plane — which kind of works, but my excitement keeps me up through most of the flight. I pass the time with my fellow Japan-bound neighbors – they are visiting the country for their honeymoon and share a few cool places they plan to visit, which I make sure to write down. I mention I’m going for a 3 month work assignment and they immediately ask me if my company is hiring. Turns out this program will be great for recruiting after all.

Despite the length, the flight passes by quickly. I touch down in Tokyo and am ushered through customs, a surprisingly painless process, and move towards the connecting flights. The airport is busy, yet remarkably organized, but noticeably humid. It is mid-typhoon season here, and I immediately appreciate how much I’ve taken for granted American air conditioning. I stop for a quick breakfast of salmon ongiri before stepping onto the shuttle that brings me to one of the smallest planes I’ve ever been on. The flight to Nagoya is quick, but noisy. I watch the landscapes of forest, mountain, and sea beneath me. I could get used to this view.

Arrival in Nagoya

Imai-san waits for me outside of the airport gates. He immediately points out all of my luggage — I apologize and explain that I pack like an American, and we laugh. The train ride from the airport is smooth, and I stare out the window as we pass by beautiful architecture and residential areas. We talk about his former travels in the US – San Francisco, New Orleans, Chicago, etc, – turns out he’s seen more cities than I have!

He walks me through Kanayama station and we arrive at the hotel. We agree to meet on Monday morning before I go to my permanent residence – the Momozono dormitory. I thank him before saying goodbye, and take a look around. The hotel room is small, and it takes me a good 10 minutes before I figure out how to turn the lights on – eventually I realize the room key doubles as a light switch. Go figure!

I’m tired, but it is still early evening, and I decide to explore the surrounding area. I stumble upon a 3-story mall outside of Kanayama station, Asunal Kanayama, filled with delicious smells, inviting restaurants, and interesting shops.

At this point, I’m starving. The choices seem endless, and I’m grateful for the restaurant windows that show you exactly what your menu options look like. As someone with very minimal Japanese skills and limited internet connection, I appreciate them doing the research for me.

I settle on Kobe Motomachi Doria, pictured above. I hadn’t heard of doria before, a Japanese rice casserole dish inspired by western flavors, but have come to learn that it is absolutely delicious. I communicate a little awkwardly with the restaurant server, but the picture menu helps me order well enough. She brings out a bubbling cauldron of rice, creamy cheese sauce, chicken, parmesan, and egg — I have to pick my jaw up from the floor.

The pot has a lit candle underneath to keep it hot. I am so hungry that I don’t even notice I’m eating it incorrectly until about halfway through the meal. They serve it with a little white bowl, intended for patrons to scoop out tiny servings into the bowl, and eat from there. Instead, I was eating it like a barbarian, straight out of the hotpot. I make a mental note not to make the same mistake next time.

Paying is easy as the check was left on the table with the meal. You bring it to the register when you’re ready. Tipping is not expected, but I do give an enthusiastic “Gochisousama-deshita!” instead.

It is late now, and I walk back to the hotel slowly, passing by arcades, pachinko buildings, and a green-haired street performer with a light-up yo-yo. I think about my plans for tomorrow, and what to wear to the office on Monday, hoping my clothes are not too wrinkled from the flight.

– Fil

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Phrase of the Day:

お会計お願いします (O kaikei onegaishimasu)

Translation: Check, please!

My name’s Fil, and I’m happy you’re here. If you’re reading this, it’s likely because I’ve specifically told you to visit this page, and not because you just happened to stumble upon it. Either way, I admire your curiosity, and I hope you enjoy what I’ll be sharing.

So – Why Are We Here?

Over the next 3 months, I’ll be traveling to Japan on a work assignment for Brother International USA, visiting our parent company in Nagoya: Brother Industries (BIL). Through this assignment, I’ll be tasked with the following:

• Learning about our processes from my colleagues in Japan, related to HR, Communications, Global Mobility, and CSR
• Sharing US HR practices to explore opportunities for alignment
• Exploring opportunities to strengthen our current international assignee program (from Japan to US)
• Developing a framework to begin a formal US-to-Japan expatriate program and preparing the next candidates for success
• Building relationships with colleagues in BIL
• Documenting my experiences (both work-related and not)

What You Can Expect From Me:

• Regular content and posts about my trip
• Tips, tricks, & insights about the country and the culture
• Pictures and stories
• Travel recommendations

Moving Forward

I can’t wait to share my experience with you. In return, I ask that you share your feedback with me and let me know what you’d like me to write about. I’d love to hear your ideas! Feel free to comment on this post or message me directly with your thoughts.

I’ll do my best to Fil you in.

But, for now – さようなら!